Racegoers' guide: how not to be down and out in Paris and Longchamp

The new-look Longchamp only hosted two Qatar Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe meetings before the curtain descended on the world thanks to Covid-19, meaning that for many it will have been at least three years since they visited the track, while others will be making their first pilgrimage to the temple of French racing.

Getting to and from Longchamp

While Longchamp enjoys the benefits of being located within the Paris city limits, it is not fantastically well served by public transport.

If you are relying on the metro to get around the city during your stay, the best bets are either Porte Maillot (metro line 1 as well as suburban RER line A or line C via Neuilly-Porte Maillot), or else Porte d'Auteuil (metro line 10).

The bistro, food garden and bar should be accessible, whether you have a grandstand ticket (Tribune d'Arrivee) or the cheaper Jardins entryCredit: Alan Crowhurst

From both these stations you can board a free shuttle bus (navette) on both Saturday and Sunday.

Porte d'Auteuil and nearby Pont de Sevres (line 9) are within about 30 minutes walking range, though the fact the racecourse is within the Bois de Boulogne park means there's not much in the way of pavement.

There is a taxi rank outside the racecourse as well as a pickup/dropoff point for Uber and other private hire cars. But be warned: getting any of those after racing on Arc day could be a lengthy and frustrating process.

Once you're inside

You should expect a pat down and a scan with a metal detector, while any bags will also be subject to a security search.

Any sizeable bag will need to be checked into left luggage (consigne) near the gate, something to bear in mind if you are not returning to a hotel before departure.

Do bring an umbrella though, as the new grandstand has a smaller capacity than its predecessors and you may get caught in the open at some stage.

The Arc Gardens enclosure features the largest pop-up bar in ParisCredit: Edward Whitaker

The panoramic restaurant and the brasserie on the ground level next to the paddock are booked out on Sunday.

Those looking for a sit down option can book the Bistro de Triomphe behind the Jardins de l'Arc – €80 for three courses, €29 for under-12s – while there is a host of pop-up fast food options in the Food Garden as well as a 30 metre Guinness Bar.

The bistro, food garden and bar should be accessible, whether you have a grandstand ticket (Tribune d'Arrivee) or the cheaper Jardins entry.

Having a bet

The first thing to know is that UK and Irish bookmakers are geo-blocked in France and so you won't be able to bet on your phone at the races if you don't have a French account with the PMU or another online operator.

There are a host of automated PMU terminals at Longchamp but you will probably find it easier to deal with a human being, either at a window (guichet) or with a roaming operator carrying a tablet.

Japanese and English-speaking betting windows at LongchampCredit: Edward Whitaker

Most staff will speak English but if you want to try out a bit of French, gagné (pronounced ganyay) is win and placé (pronounced plassay) is placed. You need to combine the two if you want each-way – gagné/placé – or else you will end up with only the place part of your bet going on, which could be a disappointment if you get the 66-1 winner of the Abbaye.

France hasn't really embraced the vertical bets through a card so there are no jackpot or placepot pools. But there are a multitude of exotic bets on each individual race, with a guide inside the racecard, with the couplé (cooplay) and the couplé ordre the equivalent of the old dual forecast and the current straight forecast.

What else to do in Paris

One word of advice is that if you plan to take in a museum or exhibition, book online in advance, as that will save you a lot of queuing.

If you don't have time for the Louvre and the Orsay, try the recently re-opened Musee Carnavalet (permanent collection is free) to take in the history of Paris, or the renaissance splendours of the Musee Jacqmart-Andre.

The Pantheon is home to the tombs of France's great and good, while it's worth paying the extra to go up to the panorama to get breathtaking views of the city.

Finally, October 1 is Nuit Blanche – literally blank night – and features a host of free cultural, artistic and musical events that last into the small hours.

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Confirmed runners, riders and draw for the 2022 Arc - plus an early tip

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