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Emphasis on modernity but still the historical home of the Arc

A year before it reopens, Scott Burton takes a hard hat tour of Longchamp

The concrete and steel shell of the new grandstand at Longchamp
The concrete and steel shell of the new grandstand at LongchampCredit: Yves CHANOIT

In a way the final day at Longchamp back in October 2015 was something of a sensory overload. The joy of Frankie and Golden Horn contrasted with the sad but dignified exit of Treve, a horse who had come to dominate the role of anyone following racing in Paris for a living over the course of three seasons.

And adding to the emotion brewing barely below the surface was the knowledge that a wrecking ball was literally at the door. As some of us made a final pilgrimage to see Treve in Chantilly the next day, a crane was already extricating the statue of Gladiateur from behind the wrought iron Honour Gate in order that the 'Avenger of Waterloo' be protected from the ensuing destruction.

Glimpses of the decline of the old twin 1960s stands and the gradual emergence of a single new structure have been fleeting in the intervening 18 months and we have mostly had to live on architectural imaginings from Dominique Perrault.

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