The morning stampede is followed by victory for a man who has embraced Japan

The big race on Japan Cup day is due off at 3.40pm. The big race before the big race begins precisely on post time at 8am. There are many winners.

Outside the west entrance of Tokyo racecourse is a long line of people. They have mats, bags, binoculars and a burning desire to obtain a plum position on the rails, in the grandstand or by the paddock. Nowhere in the world do racing fans queue for so long or in such huge numbers as they do in Japan. The reason why, quite simply, is nowhere in the world are there racing fans remotely like Japanese racing fans.

Officials have allowed us to watch the stampede but warned we can only view from certain pre-assigned positions. "It is dangerous," more than one of them has insisted. They are right. Rain has poured for three days in Tokyo, making the racing surface for horses soft and the racing surface for humans slippery. These, however, are seasoned campaigners, and when the gates open they sprint furiously but safely. Nobody hits the deck until race three.