'If Galway is a nightclub Listowel is a country pub, but there's no less craic'

Sunday
The signpost says 'Listowel 36, Ardagh 22, Athea 16'. And now the fun begins. Kerry is still very much Kerry, it hasn’t changed much. The road to Listowel definitely hasn’t changed at all in many years.

There’s bog on one side and forest on the other, the road markings disappear, potholes appear and there are narrow bridges to squeeze through, grass is growing in the middle of the road in places, large old, abandoned country houses pass by.

I have to pull around a man painting his wall and a woman cutting her grass, the hedges have dents in them from where you meet another car, the road markings reappear.